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Summary
Summary
From the author of Away with Words, a deeply hilarious and unexpectedly insightful deep-dive into a cultural and culinary phenomenon: cheese.
"Who knew it was possible to enjoy reading about cheese as much as eating it Remarkably entertaining, deeply insightful, and downright hilarious, American Cheese goes far beyond the plastic yellow slices we all know, and some love, revealing a community as quirky, passionate, and creative as the cheese they put into the world."
-- Jim Gaffigan, comedian/actor and New York Times bestselling author of Food: A Love Story
Joe Berkowitz loves cheese. Or at least he thought he did. After stumbling upon an artisinal tasting at an upscale cheese shop one Valentine's Day, he realized he'd hardly even scratched the surface. These cheeses were like nothing he had ever tasted--a visceral drug-punch that reverberated deliciousness--and they were from America. He felt like he was being let in a great cosmic secret, and instantly he was in love.
This discovery inspired Joe to embark on the cheese adventure of a lifetime, spending a year exploring the subculture around cheese, from its trenches to its command centers. He dove headfirst into the world of artisan cheese; of premiere makers and mongers, cave-dwelling affineurs, dairy scientists, and restauranteurs. The journey would take him around the world, from the underground cheese caves in Paris to the mountains of Gruyere, leaving no curd unturned, all the while cultivating an appreciation for cheese and its place in society.
Joe's journey from amateur to aficionado eventually comes to mirror the rise of American cheese on the world stage. As he embeds with Team USA at an international mongering competition and makes cheese in the experimental vats at the Dairy Research Center in Wisconsin, one of the makers he meets along the way gears up to make America's biggest splash ever at the World Cheese Awards. Through this odyssey of cheese, an unexpected culture of passionate cheesemakers is revealed, along with the extraordinary impact of one delicious dairy product.
Author Notes
Joe Berkowitz is an editor and staff writer at Fast Company, covering entertainment and pop culture. He is the author of Away with Words: An Irreverent Tour Through the World of Pun Competitions and the coauthor, along with Josh Gondelman, of You Blew It. He lives in Brooklyn with his wife and two amazing cats.
Reviews (2)
Publisher's Weekly Review
Berkowitz's relationship with dairy proves to be obsessive in this exposé that reveals the hidden, overlooked, or simply ignored world of artisanal cheeses, the mongers who love them, and the gatherings that celebrate their abundance. Berkowitz (You Blew It) provides a brief history of cheese carts, reveals that New York City's famous Murray's Cheese shop has a secret volunteer program to help with their cheese classes, and chronicles the 2018 Cheesemonger Invitational held in Brooklyn. In Austin, Tex., he visits the Cheeselandia exhibit at the 2019 SXSW festival with its "fondue pots simmering like unoccupied Jacuzzis." He travels California's Cheese Trail of some 83 creameries and farms, and sits down at Wisconsin's Center for Dairy Research for a hard look at curds. In Philadelphia, he attends the Cheese Ball, that city's "largest cheese party," an affair hosted by an influencer who calls herself Madame Fromage. Indeed, cheese has always provided a healthy environment for low comedy, and Berkowitz cannot resist flavoring his authoritative knowledge with playful turns of phrase. More endearing is the "nasal distress" caused by his less-than-expert nose for aromas, and the "existential cheese crisis" he experiences after realizing his vegetarianism might be good news for milk cows, but baby male cows pay the price by being raised for beef or veal. Ripe with fresh perspectives, this well-molded collection is a delight. (Oct.)
Library Journal Review
This book is cheesy--quite figuratively so. For Berkowitz (Away with Words), it all started at Murray's Cheese in New York with Rogue River Blue. This led to a cheese epiphany and Berkowitz's indulgent odyssey through the artisan cheese world. As he explains, the United States is fairly new to artisanal cheese. The American Cheese Society was founded in 1983, but it wasn't until 2003 that the nation become known for its award-winning cheese: Rogue River Blue. This odyssey of artisan cheese delves deep, from various animals one might milk to make cheese (including platypus, moose, and whale) to the Cheesemonger Invitational to a journey through California Cheese Trail in Sonoma County. The story comes back around to Rouge River Blue as it wins the top prize in the 2019 World Cheese Awards; the first time an American cheese has won. VERDICT An entertaining book for cheese lovers, food enthusiasts, and those looking for a fun read. Much like a good ricotta, it is light and airy with a hint of sweetness.--Dawn Lowe-Wincentsen, Oregon Inst. of Technology, Portland
Table of Contents
Introduction: A Glimpse of Dairy Narnia | p. 1 |
Chapter 1 The Big Cheese Bang | p. 13 |
Chapter 2 A Man Called Mr. Moo | p. 29 |
Chapter 3 Consider the Platypus | p. 49 |
Chapter 4 The Cheese Internet | p. 69 |
Chapter 5 Between the Farm and the Table | p. 91 |
Chapter 6 What I'm Talking about When I'm Talking about Cheese | p. 114 |
Chapter 7 The Trojan Horse Cheese Course | p. 137 |
Chapter 8 The Succulent Funhouse | p. 157 |
Chapter 9 Playing with Your Food | p. 179 |
Chapter 10 Tour de Fromage | p. 201 |
Chapter 11 The Cheese Oscars | p. 228 |
Chapter 12 The Cathedral | p. 254 |
Epilogue: Exit Through the Cheese Shop | p. 274 |
Acknowledgements | p. 277 |